Is dermaplaning good for your skin?
Why I still regret shaving my face to this day
Illustration: Mallory Heyer
From silicone makeup blenders to vampire facials (Kim Kardashian, we'll see you), it's easy to lose track of the gimmicks, fads and trends floating in and out of our beauty sphere, but dermaplaning - an extreme sharp scalpel, similar to a razor that you use to rid your face of hair and dead skin cells - is a wave that won't move an inch.
If you're active on Instagram, you've surely seen a handful of celebrities and beauty editors try this treatment; their faces are scraped off and then perfected with all kinds of tools, lotions and potions - but why is everyone so crazy about them? And would it be something for you too?
What is dermaplaning and what are its benefits?
"Dermaplaning is a physical form of exfoliation, similar to microdermabrasion," says Dr. Jonquille Chantrey, cosmetic surgeon and skin expert. "It takes the use of a sterile, surgical scalpel (that's not as scary as it sounds) to gently shave the surface of the skin and remove the top layer of dead skin and fine vellus hair." Peach hairs ”. Why the effort?
"Dermaplaning cleverly stimulates the regeneration process of the cells," continues Dr. Chantrey gone. “It helps to improve the appearance of the skin, for example with acne scars or hyperpigmentation. The effect is immediately visible and the skin looks smooth and has a radiant shine. Together with the removal of the fine hairs, the skin becomes healthier and feels more velvety. "
Sounds pretty fantastic, are there any downsides?
As a beauty editor, a flawless, fluffy face naturally sounded attractive, but after making an appointment for a dermaplaning treatment at a dermatology clinic, my moody (and fragile) skin felt sore and was terribly red. It took almost 48 hours for this uncomfortable, painful feeling to go away.
After my skin was no longer quite as sensitive, I was really amazed by that velvety feeling on my face, which was now free of the baby hair that had always kept my foundation from sitting perfectly. But while it's a myth that hair comes back thicker and darker when you shave it, my hair felt different.
The blunt ends made them look rough and spiky, and pulling out ingrown hairs became my routine.
After months of DIY shaving with a small blade razor, I noticed stubble shadows and spots forming under my skin. This blade razor is almost identical to the ones used in dermaplaning and you've probably seen them on Instagram before. When even three coats of concealer couldn't help make the shadows disappear, I knew it had been the wrong treatment for me - something Dr. Anjali can shed a little more light.
"For the people who suffer from heavy facial hair, it is better to have them waxed regularly, use a thread technique, or even better, have a laser," she says. "While these treatments don't permanently remove hair and have to be done more frequently, I'm sure they are a better option than dermaplaning."
Should YOU avoid dermaplaning?
We have found that dermaplaning is not the most effective method of hair removal, especially for those suffering from hormone imbalance. According to Dr. Anjali should be avoided treatment if you have acne and pigmentation disorders as it can make it worse.
"Sensitive skin types may not survive this procedure well either," she adds, "and people with inflammatory skin diseases such as rosacea, eczema and psoriasis are not suitable for this treatment."
Still excited? Before you make the appointment, take the time to schedule a meeting with a professional so that your skin can be assessed. It's important to talk about whether your skin will respond in the way it should.
If you want to do it, do it properly
No, I don't mean shaving you off after a YouTube tutorial (and believe me, there are hundreds of them). I mean having a professional do it, every time. No one knows more about dermaplaning than skin expert and Harley Street-based aesthetic dermatologist Dr. David Jack. “I either do dermaplaning or a combination with a facial scrub and then call that treatment an Egyptian Facial,” he says. “Generally speaking, dermaplaning - which can be repeated every six weeks - involves antiseptic cleansing of the skin, and then I usually apply a very light exfoliator before carefully shaving the entire face with a sterile, surgical scalpel blade. Then I apply a combination of different serums and finish it with a high sun protection factor, which is super important. "
Dermaplaning is anything but a "shave ´n´ go" treatment. Then your skin will need some extra TLC - and it might be a good idea to give your skincare a little makeover. "With dermaplaning, the deeper layers of the skin become more visible and, as a result, the addition of active ingredients is much more effective," says Dr. Jack. “This is the ideal time to use many anti-aging products. I recommend vitamin C or E serum in the morning, followed by a moisturizer with SPF 50, as the downside is that the skin may become a little more sensitive. In the evening, I recommend an abundant retinol (vitamin A is the purest form) night cream. ”He continues,“ Usually the skin will be red and dry for a day or something, but after a few days after the treatment, it will look the best. "
Get a little scared? There are other ways to keep your skin in tip-top condition as well
We've already talked about hair recommendation, but if the thought of dragging a scalpel over your skin for some glow scares you the fuck off in the near future, there are other ways to achieve that goal. "Good exfoliation can be achieved with regular use of AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids), retinoids, and other skin care products," says Dr. Anjali.
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