Did the Super KV2 actually exist

 

The KV-II was intended to be a support vehicle for the KV-I. Built on the frame of the KV-I, it received a 15.2 cm howitzer in a huge tower. The KV-II was quite powerful, but its huge (well armored) turret with the horizontal sides offered a target that German gunner could rarely withstand. Actually, the KV-II should only fight infantry. Heavily armored, however, it was able to withstand a huge number of direct hits and was thus allowed to use the power of its howitzer against tanks. Only called "52-tonne" by the German tank men, the KV-II was the terror of the tank troops at the beginning of the Russian campaign. Around 400 of the KV-2 were built.
(Source: http://www.panzerlexikon.de)

In this case I have added etched parts from Voyager and resin chains from WW2 Productions to the new kit from Trumpeter. Here is a brief description of the individual parts:

KV-2 Trumpeter: The kit contains a total of 277 parts distributed over nine molded parts, as well as a small molded part with two transparent parts, a tow rope made of copper and a small sheet of decals. The monstrous tower of the KV-2 is included as a part. This saves the annoying alignment of the side walls during assembly. The chains are available in two designs; once as a very flexible variant and once as injection-molded segments. In the second variant, the upper segments already have a very realistic sag. However, these two sentences end up in the famous burial box. A colored four-sided view in DIN A4 format is included for painting the KV-2. The quality of the kit is good to very good. Trumpeter has reproduced the abundant weld seams very nicely. Ejection points are also very limited.

Voyager etched parts sets PE35068 and PE 35069 KV-1 and KV-2 update (PE35068) This set contains 2 large circuit boards, 1 medium circuit board and resin parts and plastic round material. A set that is equally suitable for both types of KV - as always in absolutely very good quality, as one is used to from Voyager. On parts you can find details for the inside of the hatches, as well as small chains and resin plugs for the MG openings in the turret sides. Furthermore, the fan grilles are of course included, as well as lashing straps, tool boxes with locks, hinges and tiny chains with safety bolts. The construction instructions are very understandable and on 1 DIN A4 and 1 DIN A5 sheet, whereby the construction of the parts is dealt with on one side and leaves no questions unanswered, the other pages are provided with good drawings showing the various equipment stands of the KV-1 1939 bis Picture 1942 and KV-2 1939 and 1940.

KV-1 and KV-2 chain plates (PE35069): This set contains 4 large plates. Here you get a really nice set for your basic model to replace the somewhat thick chain plates of the plastic model. The sheets are already beautifully crafted in a fine material thickness and with rows of rivets on them. This is supplemented by further rows of rivets, end brackets and very good and detailed holders for the chain plates, which consist of up to 3 parts per holder. The good assembly instructions show the assembly of 8 variants of the holder and their use at different points on the model and at two temporal variants each of the KV-1 and KV-2.

Chains from WW2 Productions: The resin chains from the Australian company WW2 Production are of a very good quality. In two bags for the left and the right side there are a total of 220 chain sliders. Since the KV-2 only needs 85 links per side, there are still enough chain links left. However, a little reworking in the form of deburring is necessary. But you also get functional chains that can be simply put together without a drop of glue.

Tub
As always, assembly begins with the tub. A little unusual is the fact that the side walls have to be glued on. The accuracy of fit is consistently very good and does not require any grinding or filling work. Only the slots for the chain covers have to be filled, as I have replaced them with the PE variant from Voyager. A little adjustment work is required on the Voyager rear grille. This is a good 1 mm too wide. As a result, you have to trim it to the correct width when installing it.
While the tub dries, you can take care of the engine cover (C6). Since Voyager etched parts are also attached here, it is recommended to mount the cover completely assembled. The first thing you notice are the etched fan grilles, which Voyager consists of two parts.
Attention: at this point you have to use part B25 for the KV-2, as part B21, which is described in the manual, only fits the KV-1. The reason for this is the large tower of the KV-2, which would otherwise get stuck on the cover. A good sense of proportion is then required. The actual cover (A3) is then bent into the appropriate shape with the help of a pen. Finally, the structure of the cover is roughened a little. For this I applied Revell Contacta Liquid and dabbed the structure on with a hard brush.
The next thing is the chassis. First of all, all swing arms and stop dampers are attached here. On the whole, things are going pretty quickly. You just have to regrind something on the rollers. I think the fact that the chain tensioners are firmly glued is a bit of a shame. This is a little annoying, especially with the vinyl chain or the use of a single link chain, as it can no longer be tensioned after assembly.
Now the second PE set from Voyager is used. With its help, the entire chain plates are redesigned. The advantage of this version lies in the fact that on the one hand you have a realistic thickness of the sheet metal and on the other hand you can also display the parts properly dented. At this point, Voyager's instructions are 'a little' confusing. I then proceeded as follows; first I attached the brackets (left C9) for the middle sheet. Then the shortened fastening strips (D8) came on. This was followed by the actual sheet metal (C2), which was initially only attached to one point on the strips with superglue. This was followed by the lower fastening (C3) of the sheet metal. Now the sheet metal was glued to the fastening. The end strip (C1) and the middle mounting bracket (C10) followed. Once that is behind you, continue with the rear sheet (C5) in the same way. Then the front sheet metal comes to it. Now repeat the whole thing again on the right side; finished :-)
Now it is the turn of the storage boxes in the rear area of ​​the cover plates. These will also be completely rebuilt. After the new building, a box consists of 16 (!) Parts. Strangely enough, there are trays for four boxes; Hinges only for three, however. I attached four boxes to my KV-2 because there are some photos showing two boxes on the right. The lid of the boxes is a little too narrow, so that you have to bend the lower part with pliers when assembling.
With the attachment of the remaining add-on parts such as MG or headlights, the construction of the tub is already completed. Trumpeter shows attention to detail here; There is even a light bulb in the headlight. Since my KV-2 was supposed to get a hit, the pliers were now used. Here the right chain plate was demolished again to represent an explosion.
tower
Fortunately, the tower consists of one part, so that the annoying alignment of the four side walls is no longer necessary. First of all, the MG stoppers are drilled out to match, as they will be replaced by the Voyager version in the later model. Here, too, I roughened the tower with plastic glue, except for the roof. The result is a nice, rough structure on the plastic. I have replaced the enclosed handles with self-made metal wire. Finally, I have the Tower treated a little with a mini milling machine to show some hits. The fit is also very good here and post-processing is limited to a minimum. The MP plugs from Voyager are very nicely turned out and add a lot to the tower.
Where there is light, there is also shadow. Unfortunately it looks pretty empty inside the tower; In other words, there is no interior design. This is a bit of a shame because the large rear hatch and the command hatch are shown open. In my opinion, the two grooves on the pipe are a bit too deep.

Tub & tower
First, the KV-2 was primed with Tamyia Hull-Red (XF-9). This creates a uniform surface for the further work steps. Then I let the tank dry out for 24 hours. Next, a layer of Tamiya Black Green was applied. Here, too, the good piece dried out for 24 hours before continuing.
Since there is no Russian green from Tamyia, I had to experiment a little with the mixture. I chose a mix of Tamyia Nato Green (XF-67) and J.N. Green (XF-11), which were mixed in a ratio of 1: 1. The thing was diluted with isopropyl alcohol from the pharmacy. This mixture was then applied to the KV-2 in such a way that the primer still shimmered through to the edges. Large areas were brightened towards the center by adding a few drops of Tamyia Sky (XF-21) to the color mixture. lightened and applied cloudy in the middle. After this layer of paint had dried for one night, it was sealed for the first time with matt varnish. After drying, the KV-2 was now ready for further treatment.
Then the KV-2 got several filterings with ocher and green tones. To lighten the large areas further, I made a mixture of green and white oil paint. This was applied with a thin brush and then distributed with a wide brush. In places where I had applied too much, this layer was removed again with thinner. This also creates signs of weathering on the tank at the same time. Before the subsequent washing, the details such as tension belts, belt buckles, machine gun barrels etc. were painted.
This was followed by washing with oil paint (van Dyck Braun). With this washing, however, I only limited myself to the relevant edges and did not distribute the color broth over the entire tank. Then all the corners and edges were highlighted by dry painting. I used a mix of green and white here again.
After I attached the headlight lens and the taillight, the tub was dusted with pigments. Finally, the exhaust of the KV-2 was treated. First, oil paint (burnt sienna) was applied. Then I dabbed on the pastel chalk, rubbed in small pieces, with a bristle brush. This results in a nice, rough, rusty surface. I recreated the soot traces of the exhaust gases with black pastel chalk.

Drive.
The drive was largely painted like the tub and tower. But I left out the lightening with the oil paint. For this purpose, the running surfaces of the wheels were painted with Chrome Silver from Gunze. After a drying time of 24 hours, the painted surfaces were polished to a glossy finish with a piece of cloth. Finally, the drive was also treated with pigments.

Chain
Like the rest of the KV-2, I first primed the chains with Tamyia Hull-Red and let them dry for 24 hours. After that they were painted with Tamyia Gun metal. The chains were then washed with oil paint (van Dyck Braun). This was followed by a treatment with pigments like I used for the tub. Finally I dry-painted the chain with silver from Humbrol. After everything dried well, first the drive and then the chain were mounted. The fact that the WWII Productions chain is just clipped together makes it beautifully nimble. This enabled me to simulate chain damage on the right-hand side, which was probably caused by the impact of an anti-tank gun. Finally, the KV-2 was sealed with several thin layers of matt lacquer from Mr. Hobby and the handles were treated with a graphite pencil.

Trumpeter has done a very good job with this kit, especially the price / performance ratio is great. For me it was the first Russian tank and definitely not the last. There were no difficulties during assembly and the reworking on the model was very limited. In any case, you get an exotic item and an eye-catcher for the showcase, as the KV-2 is quite massive.
I think, even without the etched parts from Voyager and the chains from WWII Production, you can build a very nice model from the kit.

Price-performance:*****Accuracy:*****
Detailing:*****Difficulty level: *****

Tankograd Soviet Special No 2001 KV-2 - The Soviet heavy breakthrough tank of World War II - Tankograd Publishing

© 09/2005 Sven Heimroth